Journals
Millions of people see it every day, hundreds of thousands of people drive through it every year, and about 80,000 people live in and directly around it. Yet it remains an undiscovered treasure for millions of Californians, especially for lovers of great scenic hiking trails. It is a mountain range and a recreation area in one of the most densely developed areas in the U.S. This treasure, the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area of southern California, stretches from the Oxnard plain of Ventura County in the west, 46 miles eastward to the heart of Los Angeles. The Pacific Ocean and the Malibu coast bound it on the south, Conejo Valley and San Fernando Valley on the north. As a recreational area it is a work in progress. The National Park Service is the overall land manager, and California State Parks is the largest landholder. These agencies together with dozens of other government agencies (sewer and water districts for example) and private property owners constitute the ownership of a place of startling beauty, contrasts and wildness. It includes the famed Malibu coast, flowing creeks and high peaks, cultural features such as old movie sets and Chumash Indian sites. The Mediterranean climate, hot summers and cool wet winters in a semi arid region, is found at only a few other places on the planet. Abundant wildlife includes everything from sea anemones to mountain lions. 1700 plant species dress the rugged slopes and verdant valleys.
In 1998 I researched the Coastal Trail route along the shoreline at the base of the mountains from Mugu Rock to Santa Monica. The route is scenic and fun, but tide dependent in part because of a narrow beach profile exacerbated by seawall construction. I wanted to see if the Backbone Trail, which winds the length of the range, would serve as an inland alternate to the California Coastal Trail. The Backbone hike, or the BBTrek 2000 as it came to be known, was hatched by Milt McAuley, myself and my wife Brenda Nichols, while hiking together in the mountains. Coastwalk, the group dedicated to advocating for the completion of the California Coastal Trail, and the Santa Monica Trails Council, decided to organize a weeklong hike to explore this 70-mile long masterpiece of trail building.
On May 7th 35 hikers gather at the Ray Miller Trailhead, just across the highway from the Thornhill Broome beach, in the group camp at La Jolla Canyon. Many of the hikers, veteran Coastwalk participants and volunteers, had scant knowledge of what lay ahead on this 7-day trek. They had been warned about some important essentials including a total of 11,000 feet of elevation gain and subsequent loss, rattlesnakes, poison oak, ticks, scorpions and the possibility of hot and/or cold weather.
Our hike leader for the week, Milt McAuley, the foremost expert of the trails and wildflowers of the Santa Monica Mountains, campaigned for 25 years for the completion of the Backbone Trail. He not only pioneered many of the routes, but also helped build and maintain the trails. At 81 years young, his tireless energy for the completion of the Backbone Trail is awe-inspiring. No less inspiring is his hike leading abilities; always ahead of the group, and always on a good pace while keeping a running commentary on the trails and flowers of the mountains.
That first day as the group prepares to leave, to everyone's delight the chaparral-covered hills are filled with a startling display of wildflowers. Mountain sunflowers line the trail and black sage bloom on the hills along with ceanothus, lupine, poppy and monkey flower. The group anticipates an exceptional trip as we climb 900 feet to the first of many ridges. As the trail ploughs through the lush chaparral, and the ocean views expand, the sight of the oak studded La Jolla Canyon suddenly surprises us. This high wide valley was home to extensive Chumash Indian villages. In the 1960's it was scheduled to become a golf resort. It came so close to construction that water lines were laid, but at the last minute the land was acquired from the Broome family to form Mugu Point State Park. That night we camp near the old Danielson Ranch house and celebrate the fact that the Danielson family sold more land to State Parks forever preserving this 8000-acre park. The group camp among oak and bay trees features a fine stone fireplace and big picnic area.
The next day we make a 3000-foot climb on a well-constructed trail up the west flank of Boney Mountain, a spectacular ridge of weathered rock, topped by 3111-foot Sandstone Peak, the highest point in the range. As the group reaches the top, the fog lifts, opening up views of the Channel Islands, the Oxnard Plain, Conejo Valley, the city of Thousand Oaks, and the Santa Monica range stretching out east before us, drawing the group onward.
On Tuesday morning we awake to a fine clear day at the National Park Service camp at a former Boy Scout camp, Circle X Ranch. The group takes vans to our starting point, bypassing a five-mile stretch of narrow road, and the last remaining gap in the trail. Milt tells us the parks service is negotiating for the land needed to fill the gap. We visit the lush riparian zone of Zuma and Trancas Creeks, flowing with clear water and surrounded by sycamores, oaks and thickets of poison oak and berries. The carpets of wildflowers continue to hold the group in awe, among them Mariposa Lily and Indian Paintbrush. That evening we enjoy showers and beds, or pitch our tents on green lawns, and eat a hearty meal at Calamigos Ranch. The conference center proves a nice oasis for the night. It was founded by Grant Gerson, husband of Ruth Gerson, President of the Santa Monica Mountains Trails Council.
On day four we discover the rocky spine of Castro Crest, great views and a rare flower, the Santa Susana Tarweed, before dropping 2000 feet into Malibu Creek State Park. The creek contains one of two active steelhead runs in southern California. The trail traverses some of the prettiest country in the mountains with oak woodlands and the narrow creek gorge through Goat Buttes, past the site for the movie and TV series M.A.S.H. The day ends at a fine campground under the oaks where the group discovers good food and company after a long day on the trail.
The next day we start early to make the 2500-foot climb up Saddle Peak. The finely designed trail, laid out by our leader Milt, was built by a crew of volunteers led by Ron Webster, a builder of many miles of the Backbone. The group makes the top of the 2800-foot peak to discover the clearest day of the trip. The wind had blown the marine layer off along with the inland smog leaving stunning views of Catalina Island 30 miles offshore, the gentle curve of Santa Monica Bay ending at the hills of the Palos Verdes Peninsula. 30 miles to the east the San Gabriel Mountains form a backdrop to the Los Angeles basin, the buildings of the Wilshire District and Downtown rising above the sprawling metropolis.
On day 6 we stand at the corner of Stunt Road and Saddle Peak Road, peering 1200 feet down Hondo Canyon into the infamous Topanga Canyon. Milt tells us that after the fire of 1993 Bush Poppy exploded in Hondo Canyon in an astounding display of yellow flowers. Now there are few as natural succession crowds out the poppies with chaparral forest. We descend a well-built trail and begin to hear chainsaws in the distance. We come upon a crew of California Conservation Corps (3 C's) clearing the trail of fallen trees and thick brush. The group of fiftyish plus hikers heaps praise upon the young workers for the hard work and dedication. Without them, the trail would be overgrown and difficult to travel. We camp that night at the old homestead of Musch Ranch of Topanga State Park. The Park Ranger invites the group to have our delicious dinner in the yard behind the old residence up the hill.
The last morning we hasten to finish the 10-mile hike so that we can enjoy our farewell lunch. Our trail heads up a ridge to Eagle Rock with views all around, especially the streets of the San Fernando Valley stretching north towards the San Gabriel Mountains. Later on from another ridge, we again see Los Angeles and Hollywood. We descend the last ridge into Will Rogers State Historic Park. We cross a bridge Milt calls the "million dollar bridge" because of the large sum spent to get the trail past a narrow and dangerous spine of ridgetop. We finally leave the chaparral behind, walk past the historic Rogers stables shaded by eucalyptus trees. A sumptuous lunch waits. We eat, chat, and some watch the polo match taking place across the road. We pose for the last photo, thank Milt, Burt Elliot, Mel Savage, the cooks, and all the other volunteers for the support, say our farewells and depart.
The Santa Mountains National Recreation Area is a national treasure worth saving. While the Backbone trail is almost complete, many other problems need attention. Many thousands of acres of land need to be acquired, while the National Park Service remains underfunded for that purpose. Of the 150,000 acres within the border, only 60,000 acres are public parkland. Development along the borders and within the park boundary continues to degrade the environment. Coastal access is obstructed by private property and seawall construction continues unabated, to the detriment of the coastline and public access.
When more citizens of California discover this gem of a park hard on the border of Los Angeles, perhaps more pressure can be applied to the Federal government to give this area the attention it deserves.
For more information on the SMMNRA contact:
National Park Service Visitor Center: (805) 370-2301
California State Parks: (818) 880-0350
Reading:
Return to COASTWALK Entertainments